The Transformative Power of Chemical Peels

By Courtney Sykes, Licensed Esthetics Instructor

In the world of skincare, chemical peels are among the most effective treatments for rejuvenating the skin and addressing a wide variety of skin concerns. Despite their popularity, many people remain uncertain about how chemical peels work, the types available, and the science behind their results. In this article, we will explore the fascinating world of chemical peels and reveal how these treatments stimulate cellular rejuvenation, improve skin texture, and produce long-lasting benefits.

What Are Chemical Peels?

At their core, chemical peels are treatments that use a chemical solution or enzyme to exfoliate the outer layers of the skin. This process, known as chemical exfoliation, encourages the skin to shed damaged or dead cells, allowing fresh, healthy skin to emerge. The result is improved texture, tone, and overall radiance. Depending on the ingredients, concentrations, and pH levels used, chemical peels can reduce fine lines, minimize acne and acne scars, and target hyperpigmentation or uneven skin tone.

One critical factor in peel effectiveness is pH level. The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14, with lower numbers being more acidic. Healthy skin naturally has a slightly acidic pH of 4.8–5.5. For a chemical peel to be effective, it generally needs a pH between 0 and 4.5. This acidity stimulates mitosis of keratinocytes, increases cell turnover, clears pores, tightens them, and helps reduce hyperpigmentation. Understanding pH is essential for achieving optimal results safely.

Types of Chemical Peels

Chemical peels are typically categorized into three main types: superficial, medium-depth, and deep/medical-strength. Each level differs in strength, penetration, and intended outcomes.

Superficial Peels

Superficial peels use mild acids or enzymes to gently exfoliate the outermost layer of skin. These peels are ideal for minor imperfections or as part of a series of treatments. Their pH typically ranges from 3.0–4.5, and concentrations fall between 7.5%–15%.

Examples of superficial peels include:

• Enzyme Peel – pH 4.0
• Glycolic Acid Peel (7.5%–15%) – pH 3.0–3.5
• Salicylic Acid Peel (10%) – pH 3.3
• Lactic Acid Peel (7.5%–15%) – pH 3.0–3.5
• Mandelic Acid Peel (15%) – pH 3.0
• Kojic Acid Peel (7.5%) – pH 3.5

Enzyme peels are plant-derived and are gentle enough for all skin types. They often produce microscopic peeling, meaning visible peeling may not occur, yet the skin still benefits from exfoliation and cellular renewal.

Different acids serve distinct purposes:

• Glycolic Acid – stimulates cell turnover and mitosis
• Lactic Acid – exfoliates while hydrating
• Salicylic Acid – penetrates pores, reduces redness, and has antimicrobial effects
• Mandelic Acid – ideal for sensitive skin
• Kojic Acid – brightens and targets pigmentation

Superficial peels are often used to introduce clients to chemical exfoliation and to maintain results between more intensive treatments.

Medium-Depth Peels

Medium-depth peels penetrate both the outer and middle layers of the skin, making them effective for addressing acne scars, deeper wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation. Their pH generally ranges from 2.0–2.9, with concentrations between 16%–60%.

Examples include:

• Lactic Acid 20% – pH 2.8
• Glycolic Acid 30–60% – pH 2.2–2.5
• Salicylic Acid 30% – pH 2.5, which may crystallize on the skin
• Jessner’s Solution – pH 2.0, containing lactic acid, salicylic acid, and resorcinol

Jessner’s solution is particularly popular because it combines both an AHA and BHA, allowing deeper penetration. Resorcinol, a lipid-stripping agent, enhances the ability of the acids to reach deeper layers for dramatic results.

When using medium-depth peels, timing is critical. For example, a 30% glycolic peel should be left on for only 3–5 minutes, while a 60% peel should remain for just 1–2 minutes before neutralization. Salicylic-based peels self-neutralize, simplifying application and layering techniques.

Deep/Medical-Strength Peels

Deep peels target the deeper layers of the epidermis using potent acids like phenol or trichloroacetic acid (TCA). These peels are reserved for severe skin concerns such as advanced sun damage, deep wrinkles, and stubborn hyperpigmentation. pH levels range from 0–1.99.

Examples of deep peels include:

• TCA 15% Peel – pH 1.5, effective for acne scars and pigmentation
• Phenol + Retinoic Acid + Kojic Acid + Glutathione Blend – pH 1.3, offering anti-aging and regenerative benefits
• Complex Deep Peel Mix (TCA 12%, Retinoic Acid 0.1%, Salicylic Acid 12%, Phenol 12%) – pH 1.0

Deep peels require careful education and preparation. Unlike superficial peels, these treatments involve significant cellular turnover and visible peeling, as well as a longer period of healing.

Layering Peels for Customized Results

Layering chemical peels allows estheticians to address multiple skin concerns simultaneously. For example:

• Acne (Grades 1–2): Layer salicylic peel twice with timed intervals
• Acne (Grades 3–4): Layer glycolic, Jessner’s solution, and salicylic peel
• Anti-Aging & Wrinkles: Layer lactic peel with high-concentration glycolic peel
• Hyperpigmentation: Combine kojic acid, Jessner’s solution, and/or TCA
• Inflammatory Conditions (rosacea, broken capillaries): Layer mandelic and salicylic peels

Layered peels should never be the first treatment for a client. Proper build-up and education ensure safety and effectiveness. Neutralizing solutions (water/baking soda or brand-specific solutions) restore skin pH and prevent over-processing.

Understanding “Down Time”

Down time refers to the skin’s healing period after a chemical peel:

• Superficial Peels: May flake minimally or show microscopic peeling. Clients can continue normal routines immediately.
• Medium Peels: Skin may darken before peeling begins. Full turnover occurs within 5–7 days, with hydration critical.
• Deep Peels: Similar darkening occurs, but collagen stimulation and structural benefits continue over 6–8 weeks.

Over-processing, visible as rash-like or patchy areas, occurs when peels are applied incorrectly. Proper timing, layering, and neutralization prevent this.

Benefits of Chemical Peels

Chemical peels offer a wide range of benefits:

1. Improves Texture & Tone: Removes dead skin cells, revealing smoother, radiant skin.
2. Reduces Fine Lines & Wrinkles: Stimulates collagen, plumping and firming skin.
3. Addresses Acne & Scars: Unclogs pores, reduces inflammation, and promotes new skin growth.
4. Treats Hyperpigmentation: Breaks down melanin clusters for an even complexion.
5. Minimizes Pores: Clears debris and tightens skin.
6. Enhances Skincare Routine: Products penetrate more effectively post-peel.
7. Stimulates Collagen Production: Improves elasticity and firmness over time.
8. Non-Invasive & Minimal Downtime: Provides results without surgery or long recovery.

Conclusion

Chemical peels are an essential tool in modern skincare, offering benefits that range from improved texture and tone to deep anti-aging effects. Understanding peel types, pH levels, layering techniques, and down time ensures safe, effective treatments. Whether using a gentle enzyme peel or a powerful TCA blend, these treatments can transform the skin, giving clients a radiant, rejuvenated appearance while supporting long-term skin health.

With proper education and application, chemical peels are more than just a cosmetic treatment—they are a powerful method to stimulate cellular renewal, address skin concerns, and elevate the results of any skincare routine.